After a cracking days walk yesterday, we were looking forward to another day on the Ridgeway. But would we beat the rain that is forecast?

Watlington to Princes Risborough. 10 miles/16 km:

I rose to make the teas for the two of us as usual, but felt a bit groggy, as though I had not had enough hours sleep. My lethargy hung around for most of the morning. Mrs Three Points needed a bit of foot care prior to setting off today, quite a bit of taping. No blisters or worries, just something preventative. I was taping heels as usual as I am in relatively new shoes and still a bit concerned about the heel cups. I very much prefer trail shoes over boots and recently wrote a little about the continued issues I am getting with Altra shoes.

• The trials of trail shoes

We went over to the Inn’s restaurant for breakfast. Full English for us both this morning, and very good too. We were later joined by the group of Ridgeway walkers attempting to complete their walk today, their day three. A couple of their number looked as though they could barely walk and one had already gone home as “he is broken”. They had a 30 mile day ahead. We will stick to our considerably more sedate pace thank you. We returned to our room for the usual too much faffing about, repacking suitcases etc before wheeling them over to the bar for later collection and walking back through and out of town, back to trail.

It was only on the walk back up Hill Road that we could see anything of the Watlington White Mark, an 82m line cut into the chalk hill in 1764. Local legend states that it was a local squire, disappointed that his local church had no spire, instructed that the line be cut so that from a distance, it appeared that it did. Trees have grown so that it is never the best of views and by the time I had realised it was out of sight, I wasn’t going to backtrack for any sort of photo.

We were back on the Ridgeway (and Swan’s Way) by 9.00. and rejoined the good easy walking track that took us below Watlington Hill, and onward below the steep scarp slope of the Chilterns.

The trail also runs concurrent with the ancient Icknield Way for many miles today. It was Saturday and there was a number of people out cycling, running or day walking, I presume most were from the Watlington Farm campsite.

We have seen large numbers of Red Kites every day on this walk so far, but never as many as today. One field alone had eleven wheeling in the air above. They are true masters of the air and we watched as they twisted their deeply forked tails to ever so slightly alter their course. Our soft avenue between trees led us on almost level ground toward the M40. The noise steadily building. The path ducked under an underpass and we left the motorway behind, but the racket stayed with us for a considerable distance. We were mostly marching along in fine style but for some reason I was suffering a bit of back pain and had to stop a few times to stretch. I am using a new day pack on this trail and don’t think the back length was properly set up. I took a few minutes out to lengthen the back and it seems to have helped a bit. Time will tell, but I popped a couple of ibuprofen to help aid things temporarily. The view of the Aylesbury Vale opened up on our left and we passed between the now closed and fenced off Chinnor chalk quarries. We could hear occasional chuffing and toots below us to the left somewhere as there is an operating  heritage railway, but it remained unseen.

The Ridgeway and Icknield Way ran together for some miles before a division of the ways. Our path heads off up on to the hills, looping up through fields, woodlands and gentle climbs and descents before eventually dropping back down to rejoin the Icknield Way. We were in no rush, sticking to the trail and happy for a change from the level track we had enjoyed so far this morning so turned off with the Ridgeway.

But anyone looking at the map will realise that continuing on the Icknield Way knocks off about an hour and a couple of miles of slightly harder walking. I am sure many continue merrily on down the track. For us however, once we had rattled through the gate into the field on our right, it was nigh on lunchtime, so we sat in the flower meadow for our co-op purchased lunch of sarnies and crisps, with sheep grazing in front. The sun came out. The bees buzzed, birds sang. I lay back and shook off that earlier lethargy with a brief nap. I’m on holiday.

Setting off again and heading toward Lodge Hill there was only about three and half miles left of todays section. That said, it is a lovely walk that steadily took us to modest height with panoramic views. Another descent, to cross fields of wheat, before another climb, that actually offered up a short section of genuine ridge walking and gave us ‘OK’ views of the Whiteleaf Cross. This 100m chalk hill figure is cut into the western slope of Whiteleaf Hill, overlooking the town of Monks Risborough. Little is known of its history. It was first recorded in 1742 but is likely much older.

We sat on a bench at one view point, and it was here that the party of four Ridgeway walkers caught us up today. They hadn’t yet stopped for lunch and we gave up the bench for them as it was a perfect halt. After a few minutes natter, we left them to it. Initially quite reticent, they have mellowed over the days and are actually quite chatty now.

We then had to skirt a golf course (of course, usually one a day) before carefully crossing a railway. Rail companies hate these pedestrian crossings with a passion, but there is little they can do without expending vast amounts of money. The fact is, even with signs, gates, flashing lights and alarms, far too many people chance it on these crossings, with infrequent dire results. Additionally, there will also be those wishing to self-cancel. There is little anyone can do to prevent that.

We were on the home stretch now. Having rejoined the Icknield Way we had a bit of road walking for a short distance before leaving the trail. There is a dearth of accommodation on this section which meant catching a taxi. We left the trail at Saunderton and walked into nearby Princes Risborough, then a further kilometre to the Bell Inn where our pre-arranged transfer would collect us.

Despite the wonderful weather earlier we were well aware that the forecast was for rain in the afternoon. The sky had been getting ever greyer and it was touch and go whether we would beat the rain. I stepped it up a bit and gradually left Mrs Three Points behind. I gained the pub’s doorway ahead of the rain and sheltered there to wait. Mrs Three Points caught a bit of the rain but was little more than damp. We dove inside and sat at a table for a pint of OJ and lemon and a pint of Anchorman ‘Fresh’ IPA. I’ll leave it to you to work out who had which pint. It was now absolutely teeming it down outside. It had been pretty much perfect timing on our part. I rang our transfer taxi to let them know we were ready for collection and fifteen minutes later we were stepping in to the car for the drive to the lovely former seventeenth century coaching inn Bel & The Dragon at the Red Lion in Wendover. It is a big and popular place and we were looking forward to eating there tonight as it is another place with a bit of a positive local rep.

Somewhat upmarket, there was little they could have provided to make it any more luxurious. The staff here were incredibly attentive and helpful. I had rung Ellie earlier and she had already helped us out for tomorrow, more on that in the next post. There was even a bottle of free gin, with accompanying tonic in our room. Sadly, neither of us drink the stuff and it remained untouched. We were here early, so had plenty of time to shower, change and rest.. I even fitted in another nap.

We were back down to the bar for 19.15 for pre-dinner drinks, then a (very expensive) very good steak for me and a (very expensive) very good half chicken for Mrs Three Points, together with (very expensive) very good veg. Ever greedy, I finished off with yet another (very expensive) very good sticky toffee pudding. Drinks were Cornish Orchard cider across the table, Oliver’s Island, a citrusy 3.8% golden ale from Fullers for me, together with a carafe or two of Sicilian Nero d’Avola. It had been another good day on the Ridgeway.

• The Ridgeway- National Trail
  • Short film- Grims Ditch
  • 2016- Planning
  • 2016- Food 
  • 2016- Water sources on the Ridgeway
  • 2025- day zero- Arriving at Avebury
  • 2025- day one- East Kennett to Ogbourne St George
  • 2025- day two- Ogbourne St George to Woolstone
  • 2025- day three- Woolstone to Letcombe Regis
  • 2025- day four- Letcombe Regis to Goring
  • 2025- day five- Goring to Watlington
  • 2025- day seven- Princes Risborough to Aldbury
  • 2025- day eight- Aldbury to Ivinghoe Beacon and the Bridgewater Monument