A year ago, deeming myself not fit enough to complete my planned Skye Tail, I decided to walk something less demanding and instead travelled to Scotland to backpack the Borders Abbeys Way. I enjoyed three of the five fairly undemanding days on this 68 mile ‘Great Trail’ but decided it hadn’t been interesting enough to write a dedicate post on. One brief highlight however, was stopping overnight at the Riverside Caravan Park and Campsite at Hawick and meeting Modestas Lukauskas, a Lithuanian walking John o’ Groats to Land’s End, almost certainly the first of his countrymen to do so. He walked 1209 miles over 59 days and I met him on his day 21.

Over that evening and following morning we chatted at some length and he discussed his adventure so far and thoughts on his days to come. Leaving Scotland behind and heading into England, he felt he was moving from one adventure to another, not least the perceived extra challenge of continuing his preferred wild-camping in a country less tolerant of it. Modestas has shared his trail notes via his Facebook diary. There is a slight poetry to much of his words, though perhaps not best illustrated by my brief selection here:

Day 21 Last night in Scotland tonight. Tomorrow I should be coming to England.

“It was the 21st day of my journey. Tonight marked my final night in Scotland before crossing over to England. Scotland had left an indelible mark on me, for it was not I who conquered Scotland, but rather, Scotland that conquered me. It had a way of humbling me, alternating between moments that showcased my strength and others that exposed my vulnerability. Scotland had tested me relentlessly, causing me to stumble and falter on numerous occasions. I knew deep within that I would return to this land, to be tested once again.

Throughout my journey so far, I had covered a total distance of 671 kilometers. Along the way, I had encountered fascinating individuals, both Scots and Lithuanians, who displayed remarkable generosity. The natural beauty of Scotland had left me awe-inspired, while the unpredictable climate had taken me by surprise. As I looked ahead to the challenges that awaited me in England, there was one particular hurdle I already knew of – wild camping was considered illegal there. To camp amidst the wilderness, I would have to do so discreetly, setting up my tent under the cover of darkness and rising before the watchful eyes could notice.

On this particular day, I had trekked 30.5 kilometres. By midday, I had arrived in Hawick, where I made a beeline for Wetherspoons, seeking respite. From there, I made my way to the campsite, a further 40 minutes’ walk away. Once my tent was pitched, I found myself surrounded by curious chickens, their clucking and pecking creating a mild disturbance. Their incessant hunger prevented me from indulging in a peaceful meal, as they snatched away my snacks right from my grasp. Seeking solace, I approached a nearby table, but even there, they managed to clamber up, persistently demanding their share of food.

Finally, I managed to steal a moment of tranquillity beneath the warm stream of water in the shower. Standing there, I took the opportunity to wash a few items of clothing, revelling in the feeling of cleanliness. Life seemed to have taken on the enchantment of a fairy tale.

Amidst this idyllic scene, my attention was drawn to a fellow traveller who began setting up his tent adjacent to mine. Engaging in conversation, he revealed that he had completed his own trek across Britain five years prior, a journey that had spanned five months. Currently, he was embarking on a multi-day exploration of Scotland. Upon learning that I still had 39 days left on my own journey, he delved into his backpack and produced an assortment of calorie-rich snacks, insisting that I take them. He acknowledged the long road ahead of me while expressing his imminent conclusion to his own adventure in just a couple of days. We lingered outdoors, seated at the table, sipping tea and exchanging stories…

… as night fell, the peaceful ambiance was broken by gentle snoring. It served as a reminder that it was time for me to retreat into my own haven. Aware that the roosters would rouse the world from slumber at the break of dawn, I sought solace in the comforting embrace of sleep.

And so, under the starlit sky, I am ready to close my eyes, reflecting on the challenges overcome and the remarkable encounters that had shaped my journey thus far. Tomorrow, as I ventured into England, I knew that new trials awaited me. Uncertain of what lay ahead, yet fuelled by the resilience forged during my time in Scotland, I embarked on a peaceful night’s sleep, eagerly anticipating the adventures that lay on the horizon.”

Modestas Lukauskas, the first Lithuanian to walk from John o’ Groats to Land’s End

The above just relates to that one evening when Modestas and I met at Hawick, but the rest of his journal makes for an interesting read, particularly if you are planning such an adventure yourself. This can be found, alongside accompanying photos, on komoot and on his Facebook page: facebook.com/modestas.lukauskas.1/.