Skip to content

Trail talk: The Thames Path- Marlow to Windsor

Marlow to Windsor. 14.5 miles (23.0km)

Despite a fair amount of road traffic outside, we slept pretty well. Some windows were open as I had sink washed skiddies and socks drying. Yep, despite having a suitcase being transported for us from accommodation to accommodation, I am still washing some trail clothes. Mrs Three Points of the Compass simply looks at me, declines to comment, and sighs.

Another v warm day. The path to begin with was exposed, through meadows thick with dogwalkers, some of whom were thick dogwalkers. Chattering, while their charges ran amok 100s of metres away, worrying toddlers, fighting timid dogs or crapping on the wide path. The two of us clenched our hiking poles for possible defence but remained untroubled.

All Saint’s Church at Cookham
as wise as a serpent“, oh that we should all be remembered in such glowing terms

There really isn’t much to say of the days walk. The river widened, islands suddenly appeared and were left behind. National Trust cruisers chugged sedately up and down with their contented passengers. We waved our hats at them as they passed, they all dutifully waved theirs in response.

Having put our heads down and marched on, determined to break the back of today’s section prior to lunch, our appreciated halt was in the shade of the gardens beside the Maidenhead Bridge. A hundred years earlier, there would have been hundreds of onlookers on and beside the bridge, watching the myriad of Thames craft passing beneath the bridge, Lords, Ladies and Princes amongst them. Today we had it to ourselves along with some noisy territorial geese. Eschewing the few hotel restaurants and pubs, we raided the local co-op for the makings of an al fresco picnic.

To be honest, we were more than pleased with the miles of shaded path approaching Windsor. While it provided limited views of the river, it also bought the temperature down by at least five degrees. Reaching the river bend round the end of Downey Lake, we paused at a rare viewpoint to watch the Eton students battling it out in Dragon Boat races, the beat from each boats drummer echoing up the river and probably baffling the motor cruiser users busy showing off a good few grands worth of craft. On the river itself, three fours squeezed into Boveney Lock, while a fourth crew portaged round.

13th century Church of Mary Magdalene, a short walk across a small meadow from the river, this candlelit simple place of worship was once the ‘boaters church’. With falling attendance (or is that sinners), it could now be an unloved ruin, but it is now in the care of Friends of Friendless Churches

The castle in Windsor doesn’t reveal itself until almost the last moment, and is a grand and welcome sight when it does. Less attractive is the rubbish liberally scattered around municipal bins and blowing across the grass in the breeze. Certainly not the fault of picniking folk who have attempted to ram their rubbish into overflowing receptacles. The blame lies entirely with the slipshod council, who all need sacking.

Windsor is revealed

Our accommodation tonight is the Crown and Cushion in Eton High Street. The dwelling has existed since the 1600s and has been an inn since 1753. This is but a short walk from the river, passing a couple of decent pubs en route. While the room was comfortable, the menu didn’t exactly inspire us so we chose to go elsewhere. We could have explored Eton further for an eatery, but walked across the bridge in to Windsor to eat as we knew of a perfectly adequate (and well priced) ‘Spoons in town in the shadow of the castle walls. Not only that, but I knew I should be able to get a decent pint. As it was, other than the usual sub-standard three ales on tap, tonight’s glass was 4% Amber from the Otter brewery.

The George. Easily the best establishment visited during our brief time in Eton and Windsor
A superb selection of beers at the George. I tried four and there wasn’t a dud amongst them

The Thames Path- National Trail

8 replies »

Leave a comment

Follow Three Points of the Compass on WordPress.com

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 363 other subscribers

Translate