Three Points of the Compass travelled to Chile to join four hundred other hikers on Fjällräven’s first multi-day Classic hike in Patagonia, following their concept testing the previous year.

After three flights and many hours, my journey from the UK to Chile was over. I entered the compact Julio Gallardo airport terminal with a degree of nervous anticipation. Had my pack been transferred, and if so, was it intact and undamaged? No doubt assisted by my having encapsulated it in a travel cargo bag, baggage handlers had done their job and it rattled out onto the short reclaim belt. I was not the only one reclaiming a pack, a couple of other dozen hikers milled around. Some were no doubt here for the Fjällräven Classic, others would be walking either the ‘W’ or ‘O’ treks in the nearby Torres del Paine National Park.

I immediately felt part of something special when I passed a “welcome trekkers” sign erected by the organisers in the airport terminal. Outside, I squeezed into an already packed shuttle bus for the short trip into Puerto Natales. The driver was familiar with the needs of his passengers and dropped everyone off at their desired hostel/hotel/Airbnb. I was the last, probably due to my having earlier booked the cheapest accommodation I could find, a bit further from the town centre. Checking in, the lovely lady had no English and I spoke no Chilean Spanish, but we managed just fine. I quickly dumped my bag in my room, and was back out on the street in five minutes.

I was in Chile to walk Fjällräven Classic Chile 2024. This four-day 73km hike was one of several events organised by Swedish outdoor clothing and equipment brand Fjällräven across the globe. I had completed their Sweden Classic the previous year and enjoyed it immensely. However I found the c1500 participants slightly excessive and despite this being a convivial occasion where new friends are made, frequently craved for quieter times on trail. While on that multi-day walk I had heard that another destination was being considered for the following year. This one would be in Southern Patagonia. Chile was a place I had never visited and I was sufficiently intrigued that I added my name to the newsletter subscription in the hope of a place when the event draw was announced. I was encouraged by hearing that numbers would be kept ‘small’, certainly far less than Sweden. Remarkably, in the face of considerable demand, my application was successful.

• Fjällräven Classic Sweden 2023- application, logistics and stats
• Fjällräven Classic Sweden- heading west to the Kungsleden. Nikkaluokta to Sälka
• Fjällräven Classic Sweden- heading north on the Kungsleden. Sälka to Abisko

So, I now found myself walking down through Puerto Natales to the coastal road, looking for the Fjällräven Classic check-in. Shops and houses were beginning to put out Christmas decorations- bunting and decorated trees, coloured-lights, outside one shop was a large inflated penguin decked out in Father Christmas costume. Though I must admit I was most impressed by the variety of rubbish bins, made to look like various characters.

Fjällräven are well practised in organising these events. For an entry fee of $480 they organise the route and check-in points. Shuttle buses from the start and finish camps are provided. Staff and volunteers provide considerable help, including planning, dehydrated meals, stove fuel, along with comforting advice for those new to the game.

I had less need of the latter, but appreciated the help in logistics and an opportunity to hike through Patagonia on privately owned land not normally open to the general public.

Classic Chile has two start days in order to spread out participants on trail. There had already been around 250 starters this morning. I was booked to start tomorrow, on Tuesday 3 December. There would be around 150 participants setting off on the second day. There are a couple of start times each day, again, to spread out the hikers. I had booked the 10.00-10.15 slot, along with a seat on the shuttle bus to the start, a thirty minute ride out of Puerto Natales. But today, I was simply joining the excited melee in El Galpón (a large waterfront shed) to complete the necessary admin and collect what was provided. As with all the various Classics, there was a bright orange identifying square of material to tie to the outside of my pack, a trash-bag, roll of TP, route map, dehydrated meals for the first two days and a gas canister for my stove. The other meals would be provided half-way through the trek. Perhaps most important amongst these was a passport in which to collect the compulsory check-point stamps. Collecting these is a requirement to receive the finisher’s patch, medal and pin badge at the end. I also blagged a free branded T-shirt.

As always, the choice of meals was very good and of high quality. Organisation was all very efficient and went smoothly. I then booked a lamb BBQ at the finish camp on the final day, purchased a coffee at the little pop-up café and listened to one of the talks taking place. I had arrived too late for the presentations that had already taken place but this was on the local flora and fauna. I already had a wish list of what I hoped to see while in Chile- Andean Condor, Ñandú, or lesser rhea, guanaco and hopefully puma. Sadly the last was the only one I wouldn’t see during my time in Patagonia.

Having completed check in, listened to the talk and chatted to a couple of people, I left a huddle of hikers, many attempting to stuff food in to their already bulging packs. I first walked down to the seafront, to see the prominent art work: “Amores de Viento en Natales“, showing two people, high above my head, that seem to stretch out and fly in the Patagonian winds. Winds that I was already slightly apprehensive of as they have a reputation of attaining incredible force. I walked beneath the two figures, out on the wooden boardwalk to look across the water. Somewhere over that expanse, amongst those snow topped peaks opposite, was Argentina. I felt a long way from home and was quietly excited.

About face and up the hill in to town. I was searching for a shop that sold local SIM cards. It took a bit of time. I tried supermarkets, petrol station, souvenir shops, street kiosks, sweet shop, even an Entel phone shop (that didn’t sell Entel SIMs) but I eventually found a tiny phone accessories shop tucked away in a side street, that sold me a seven-day card. After that, it was back to my accommodation, install the SIM and a chat with Mrs Three Points of the Compass. I doubted that I would have reception once out of town but wanted to send some reassurance to home and a brief video call goes a long way in achieving this. This was followed by a shower and a final sort through of my gear and pack my foodbag, before venturing back out to town.

Beside requiring a bit of exercise to calm nervous excitement, I was also attempting to stretch muscles and ligaments. As anticipated, I was a bit stiff and achy after too many hours in cramped planes. Perhaps some muscle relaxant might help! I searched out a bar for a local beer or two (or four), and hopefully something to eat. There was a lot of choice and I somehow almost immediately found El Brisket, that provided a decent sandwich and local beer, polished off with a Pisko Sour. An establishment that I would return to a couple of times in the days following this hike.

Puerto Natales has a reputation of being a ‘safe’ town, but I preferred not to wander unfamiliar darkened streets, so after eating I again returned to my hostel. It was the beginning of summer but everyone was well-wrapped up. It was getting cold and the wind was picking up. Once back in my room there was nothing else to do other than put my head down for an earlyish night. Despite being just a tad uncertain as to what the morning would bring, I nodded off easily. Day One on trail tomorrow.

• Fjällräven Classic Chile 2024- Day 1 ‘The Forest day’
• Fjällräven Classic Chile 2024- Day 2 ‘The Mountain day’
• Fjällräven Classic Chile 2024- Day 3 ‘The Lakes day’
• Fjällräven Classic Chile 2024- Day 4 ‘The Torres del Paine day’